My First 40 Years
Joseph Buchmann
My father must have been waiting for some news from home. He grabbed twenty-five Centimes from his pocket and paid for the telegram. I imagine he quickly ripped open the envelope.
On the 22nd of November 1941, the day of my birth, thousands of miles away across the ocean, the United States enjoyed Thanksgiving Day weekend, the first-ever federally sanctioned Thanksgiving Holiday. Perhaps they were paging through that day's Saturday Evening Post magazine. The magazine's cover page shows a picture of a beautiful young girl at the family dinner table saying grace and eyeing a finger-licking good roasted turkey. The cover's headline read 'Put up or Shut up'. What did it mean? In America, all talk was about the raging war in Europe. Politicians tried to calm and reassure the worried population that the country was not at war, well, not really, pretending the war against Hitler could be won without the USA engaging in combat. The magazine's foreign correspondent wrote an insightful editorial. He contended that the United States was already deeply involved in the war, given that it was an essential weapon supply line, generously helping Great Britain in its fight against the marauding Hitler machine. He argued that it was high time to stop pretending.
And, on that Thanksgiving holiday weekend, Saturday, 22nd of November 1941, the families in America may have listened to the five o'clock big band Glenn Miller Sunset Serenade on CBS radio, played live from the Pennsylvania Hotel, New York, unaware that just fifteen days later, the Pearl Harbor attack would officially draw the United States of America into World War II.
Our home was located in Oberbürglen, a small hamlet situated below the village of Rain, near Lucerne, in the alpine foothills of central Switzerland. The "Rain" village name might conjure up an image of a cloudburst and downpour. But not so. The village of Rain was first mentioned in the thirteenth century as 'am Reine', meaning a place on a slope.
Franzi and Isidor ate their share. Yum, yum. I stomped my foot and stubbornly refused to eat my piece. So, after a while, Rösi took my share of the banana and divided it into three smaller parts. She handed Franzi one slice, Isidor another, and Rösi took one herself.
My father's great-great-great-grandfather, Josef Buchmann, born in 1723, was the Chief District Administrator ('Amtsweibel'). In 1758, Josef was among those honored to lay the first stone of the new Saint-Martin church. The beautiful church still dominates and adorns our small ancestral town of Hochdorf.
Römerswil is located near the top of the Erlosen Mountain in central Switzerland. Before you might conjure up a Swiss alpine scene, I should explain. The Erlosen is not a real mountain; it is a range of hills 810 meters high, formed eons ago by glaciation during the ice ages. Our new home was in the small hamlet of Ludiswil, half an hour's walk from the village of Römerswil. The panoramic view on a clear day is out of this world; an unobstructed view of the spectacular mountain panorama, from the iconic Pilatus to the Rigi, the Queen of Mountains, with the snow-covered Titlis sitting in between.
Ludiswil, our hamlet, lies on the slope of the Erlosen mountain, near the top, rising on the shady side of the Seetal Valley. In ancient times, the Erlosen mountain was a vast forest where no man dwelt, where the valley people could hunt wild boar, cut wood, and pick berries and mushrooms - free for all. The virgin Erlosen evokes an image of a deep, cool forest with gleaming green moss, white-dotted red mushrooms, foraging boars, and roaming wolves - the enchanted forest - the place of the 'Hänsel and Gretel' fairy tale.
The impressive schoolhouse portal hints at ancient classical architecture. In the arch's stone relief carving, an angel is holding an open book. We entered a House of Learning.
Our schoolhouse was built in 1927. It is an imposing but graceful building; it will surely stand for another century. The schoolhouse had three classrooms. One room was for primary grades 1 to 3, another room for primary grades 4 to 6, and a third room for the two senior secondary school grades.
I was an avid book reader. For a time, my favorite books were the series of novels called 'Winnetou' by Karl May. I couldn't get enough of these books; they told the most gripping Apache stories, the feats and actions of Old Shatterhand and Chief Winnetou. Once I started reading, I could not stop.
School photo. I am sitting front row, second, next to Isidor, door side
My brothers and I were altar boys at the village church. We proudly served and valued our duty. I am not sure why we all chose to be altar boys. It was not piety or the five francs in coins we received on New Year's Day, and it was not the privilege to climb up the bell tower once a year on Easter Day. We knew that serving as altar boys was a noble thing to do. And we knew all altar boys would be guaranteed a place in heaven.
My mother was 12 years old when her father died from a head injury in a farm accident. The photo shows my mother wearing a mourning dress on her First Communion Day, soon after her father's death. Sadly, I know almost nothing about my grandfather Nicklaus. Grandmother came from a large family of nine children; she had six sisters and two brothers. I remember only a few of her many siblings. Coming from such a large family, my mother had many relatives.
Grandmother Gotte died the next day. Gotte was only 73 years old. It was our saddest day. We were very close to Grandmother Gotte. We missed her a lot. Gotte was devout and God-fearing. She is in a special place in heaven. I remember Gotte so well. I will never forget her.
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Miggi always smiled; she had such a happy demeanor. In our small world, Miggi gave us a glimpse of a sophisticated world. Miggi told us how she traveled by airplane over the Alps to the Mediterranean Sea. And to London, several times. She told us about flights in turbulent weather. Miggi could speak English. We would ask her to pronounce some English phrases. They sounded so different, so wonderfully tuneful. We learned a few English words and showed off with our friends at school. In her younger life, Miggi was the nanny for the children of the prominent Ringier family of Zofingen. Miggi visited us during the summer and stayed two or three days. What a wonderful time we had.
Near the battlefield is the beautiful memorial chapel. The names of the many men who lost their lives in the battle are displayed on its walls. Listed among the dead soldiers is a man called Peter Buchmann.
When the wagon was fully loaded, Father secured the load of hay by placing a log beam on top, slung a rope over its end, and anchored it to the wooden torsion cylinder. With levers inserted into the cylinder, two men cranked down the log beam and hay to nearly the point of snapping. Think of the ancient Roman soldiers pulling down the throw-arm of a catapult. Father told us never to sit on top of the log beam. If the rope should snap, we would be hurled halfway up to the moon. We could now drive the hay cart to the barn. And rest a bit.
I was fifteen or sixteen when I tasted my first Coca-Cola. The school teacher organized a field trip to the Coca-Cola bottling plant in Lucerne. I had seen posters and magazine ads for Coca-Cola, but never tasted the drink. When thirsty from hard work in the hot sun, we prepared homemade sparkling 'Perli' lemonade. On special occasions, we were allowed to buy a bottle of Orangina. And we always had plenty of homemade sweet apple cider.
Could my soul, my inner self, be that of a blacksmith? My feelings have always been fired up watching a blacksmith forge a piece of iron. I am captivated by the blacksmith's skill as he lifts a red-hot iron ingot from a blazing furnace, places it on the anvil, bends it, folds it, hammers it into shape, with fiery sparks flying, then quenches it in a cold water bucket, steam spewing. I could watch for hours. Iron forging has been a man's craft for millennia. The firebrand that I am not, it is strange that my inner self gets so stoked up by that ancient craft. Blacksmithing in Switzerland in the late twentieth century offered few opportunities, so my parents told me.
Leaning forth the open path,
I look past the leading star.
With yearning thoughts of lands afar,
I leave my sheltered life behind,
for new worlds, I hope to find.
To this day, I have never seen a monument more beautiful, anywhere in the world. In my Paris days, access to the top of the Arc, walking up its stairwell, was free for all. I have walked up these stairs more than a dozen times. From the top, I admired the incredible views of Paris.
My place was located on a small street, which was not shown on many city maps. He told me how he got lost buzzing around the streets of Paris for more than an hour on his Moped motorbike; he could not find my street. Isidor knew that my address was close to the Arc de Triomphe, so he parked the motorbike at that busy circle and continued his search on foot. Isidor barely spoke French, but a German gentleman was good enough to tell him where to find Théodore de Banville Street.
After fifteen months in Paris, it was time to go home. I decided to complete the five-month mandatory Swiss military service. Still living abroad, I could have wiggled myself out of that obligation. However, with deep inner feelings for my Swiss homeland and to respect my family's wishes, I chose to honor my military responsibilities.
The SS Ryndam steamship of the Holland-America Line sailed from the port of Le Havre for Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, a six-day crossing. The Ryndam was not a luxury cruise ship; she was a no-frills Atlantic passenger ship, accommodating about 850 tourists and immigrants. I would have liked to experience the crossing on the luxurious brand-new SS France, but such a ticket was far too expensive. SS Ryndam made her maiden voyage in 1951; she was built as a freighter. The ship featured few public rooms, including a large lounge, card room, library, bar, and smoking room. Everything was practical, just right, nothing overdone, true to Dutch good sense.
In the spring of 1967, I met the beautiful Louise at a dance at the Pavilion in Stanley Park, Vancouver. We danced all night. Le coup de foudre! Louise had recently arrived in Vancouver from Quebec with her sister Odette. They planned to stay in Vancouver for a year to learn English. Louise and I dated for a year, and we married in June of 1968 at the French Canadian church near Madame Marchand's house, where Louise lived. We spent our 'nuit de noce' at Harrison Hot Springs and the honeymoon at a beach cabin on Okanagan Lake in Kelowna.
On our way to school, my brother Isidor and I stopped and marveled at the family's new car parked outside their house. We admired its features - the modern look and vibrant colors. We thought this 1953 Ford Consul Mark One reached the apex of automobile design. As seen from the side, the front and the rear were almost symmetrical; the wheels were tucked in, and the rear wheels covered halfway down. How advanced and revolutionary, so different from the accustomed old styles, how stunningly beautiful! Did we witness a tipping point in automobile design? We knew we might never own a car or not for a long time. There was no envy; we were so happy to see these new cars in our neighborhood.
My second car was a yellow Mustang, fully loaded with a vinyl top and whitewall tires. It had all the options. The first ride was a magical and hypnotic moment. I sat in the comfortable bucket seat, overlooking the bulging hood with its powerful beast below it, the sound of the FM stereo radio at full blast, mixing with the rich roar of the V8 engine. My senses were mesmerized. I still remember the song 'I Got You Babe' on the radio as I drove westward on 41st Avenue. I was on cloud nine. I kept on driving, not caring where the road would lead. It was my Mustang Moment, a day I will remember forever.
Now that I live on another continent, I miss the crusty Swiss bread. Growing up in Switzerland as a young boy, my family knew I loved the end piece of a fresh loaf, the heel, that first cut. And they always saved it for me.
I climbed up to the rim of Kilimanjaro and trekked for four weeks in the Himalayan mountains. But my most treasured travel experience was the Trans-Siberian Railway trip in August 1991.